Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics. (Reprinted 1971)
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Pierson, Willard J.
James, Richard W.
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Wave research has made great strides during the past 10 years. The spectrum of ocean waves was first studied in Britain by G. E. R. Deacon, N. F. Barber, and F. Ursell. The study of wave spectra was continued in the United States by A. A. Klebba, G. Birkhoff, and many others. The irregularities and the statistical properties of waves were also being studied, and an attempt was being made to fit the various pieces together in a consistent and logical pattern. During 1949, the members of the staff of the Department of Meteorology and Oceanography at New York University began the study of ocean waves under a contract with the Beach Erosion Board. The problem was to determine the effects of waves on the beaches of the east coast of the Uneitd States. Wave refraction theory and wave spectrum theory were studied in connection with these co.tracs in order to find newer and better techniques for describing the waves. As this research progressed, the Office of Naval Research becam.....
PublisherU.S. Naval Hydrographic Office
Sustainable Development Goals (SDG)14
Essential Ocean Variables (EOV)Sea state
Best Practice TypeManual (incl. handbook, guide, cookbook etc)
CitationPierson, W.J.; Neuman, G. and James, R.W. (1955) Practical methods for observing and forecasting ocean waves by means of wave spectra and statistics. (Reprinted 1971). Washington DC, U.S. Oceanographic Offices, 284pp. (H.O. Pub 603). DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.25607/OBP-985
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